![]() Probably, wouldn't be useful on anything shorter than an 85. Understand it's a motorized extension ring, so your focal range will come in. I've used for handheld and on a test shot of a marigold processed with first attempt with Helicon Focus got a result that passed muster and delighted as long as you didn't pixel peep. If a lens isn't on the list that doesn't mean it doesn't work with it, they just tested the common ones and look to the community to verify more. The list is short but appears to include the common lens used for macro. ![]() They have a list of lenses that have been verified. It doesn't work with all autofocus lenses. It only works with auto focus lenses and you put the camera in manual mode. You set a start focal point and a number of "steps" it should take to get to either infinity or max near focus (you choose which direction you want to go.) Each "step" is a shot. FB Tube rotates your focus ring same as your camera would with the newer top end cameras. the memory ain't what it used to be!) A mechanical device such as this can be used with virtually any camera and lens (and lens accessory, such as macro extension tubes), including manual focus.įB Tube isn't a rail so that metric doesn't apply. But, it also might have been made and sold by a different company (gettin' old. That could be programmed with image count and focus intervals for various focus stacking needs. But you can see in this image, that when focused on the near row of pins on the STM32 chip on the board, much of the board is out of focus. The NiSi NM-180 lets us easily move our camera forward and backwards in order to get what we want in focus. If I recall correctly, HeliconSoft (the company that offers all the above) at one time offered a motorized, computer-controlled focusing rail device for use on a tripod. In this case, it’s an STM32 development board. Check the HeliconSoft website for compatibility and/or contact them for recommendations. Which you would need depends upon the camera and lens you're using. ![]() Remote is software, while FB Tube is hardware and software. Helicon Remote and Helicon FB Tube essentially do the same thing. This device also requires a lens with autofocus capabilities. It is currently available only in Canon EF mount and Nikon F mount (both DSLR lens mounting systems, which might be possible to adapt to some mirrorless camera systems). The device is controlled by computer, tablet or smart phone. "Helicon FB Tube" is a physical device that's fitted between lens and camera both to allow the lens to focus closer and to provide incremental focus bracketing. This version is in development to be a future version of Helicon Remote. "Helicon Remote Beta" is same as Helicon Remote with a few newer camera models added (including some Sony, Canon and Nikon mirrorless), although in some cases there may be limited functionality. The software resides on a computer or other device, to which the camera will be tethered. "Helicon Remote" is a software that can be used to control select Canon and Nikon DSLRs and will make the cameras do focus bracketing as described above. Before buying any of the following, check your camera's capabilities in this regard. Some cameras now have built in ability to do focus bracketing, where the camera shifts focus slightly for a series of shots that will be later post-processed with the above software. "Helicon Focus" is a computer image editing software used to combine a series of images taken at different focus points into a single image with greater depth of field than is possible optically. Looks interesting but does it really work? defraction doesn’t help beyond f5.6 tbh so it’s best staying at f2.8 or f4.Has anyone used the Helicon Focus? It is used for automatic focus stacking via a lens attachment combined with their software program. ![]() I do like doing things at maximum magnification (hence why I’ve been happy without an AF macro for last few years of mirrorless), so the lack of focus completely isn’t a problem. A common problem in macro is lighting and a short MFD and big hood can be a disaster. I especially like how small the diameter of the lens is at the end. On the 2.5-5x laowa lens, it’s pretty special. This gave me confidence of having everything snapped correctly. In terms of why this over focus rail, it was mainly for testing, but having used a rail quite a lot over last 2 years, I have often managed a few missed shots that muck up a stack. I also used f4 whereas a tighter aperture would also have meant fewer shots of course. So no focus rail needed (although I did use one to get the foreground shot perfectly at the MFD of the lens for 1:1. Regards to helicon remote, it’s an app (I used tethered on my mac but mobile version also available) where you tell it the start focus and end focus points, it collects camera settings from camera and works out ideal number of shots, then cycles through, snapping, minute movement in focus, then snaps again. You’re all right, I probably went over the top with the 400 shots! That first shot though was around 30 degrees angle to the platform so there was a lot of depth from front to rear of shot.
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